DIY and Entry-Level 3D-Scanner Forum

If you want to use a Primesense Scanner (Kinect or Asus Xtion) for 3D-printing, you need the following software:

1) 3D-scan Software: You have a broad choice of 3D-scan software. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Here are some choices:

o ReconstructMe: You see the final 3D-model during the scanning process. Hardware intense. No textures.
o Skanect: Applies textures on your 3D-model. Model is created after scanning process. Less hardware demanding.
o Artec Studio: Applies textures on your 3D-model. Model is created after scanning process. Less hardware demanding. Professional software.
o Faro Scenect: Does not generate a 3D-mesh, just a pointcloud. Applies textures on your pointcloud. Professional software. Used for architecture.


2) 3D-mesh editing: Meshlab is the standard tool for hobbyists to edit your 3D-model. I use Meshlab to reduce the amount of polygons suitable for 3D-printers (about 50.000)

3) 3D-mesh remixing: If you want to change and remix you 3D-scan, I recommend Meshmixer. This software makes it possible to manipulate your 3D-model like a piece of clay.

4) Optimize the 3D-model for the 3D-printer: A 3D-printer needs to get a watertight 3D-model with a flat bottom. Watertight means, that the 3D-mesh is closed, without any holes. Netfabb is the tool you need, to get this done.

5) Slice the 3D-model: To get your 3D-model into the real world, a 3D-printer prints it layer by layer, starting at the (flat) bottom of the model. A layer is about 0.15mm high. It has a shell (the outer shape of the 3D-model) and an infill (the inner, not visible part). The slicing software does the calculus of the layers and generates a output file in the g-code format. Your 3D-printer interprets this g-codes file and moves the stepper motors accordingly.
I use Slic3r, but there are other options s well.

6) Controller software for your 3D-printer: Once you have a g-code file, you need a software that transforms it into real movements of the stepper motors of the 3D-printer. The standard software for hobbyists is Pronterface.
Some printers have a controller included and you need just to put the g-code file on a SD-card.

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Bernhard
www.virtumake.com

This is very good information. Thanks

I've been involved with 3D scanning for a fairly long time as these things go, starting with a MicroScribe articulated arm device, working up through automated touch-probes and laser scanners of various sorts. Lately I've started experimenting with consumer-level devices primarily developed for the gaming market. (Gotta love those gamers for pushing the technology along!) I got an ASUS Xtion device (like a Kinect, but able to get its own power from the USB port). The first thing I tried with it was Faro's Scenect software. That didn't seem to work at all, for some reason.

Trying again, I had pretty good results with the Xtion and Artec's "scanning for fun" software, doing scans of larger objects than I'd been used to before (albeit at lower resolutions). I noticed that while it did well in low-light situations, even a little sunlight on an object would prevent it from capturing any data in the well-lit areas. I just tried the Skanect software with my Xtion and was favorably impressed. This does seem like a good low-cost solution for capturing at least the major features of a fairly large part (or person), refining the mesh, filling the holes and producing a flat-bottomed mesh that will print (although I haven't yet proven that on a 3d printer). But I am encouraged enough to have ordered one of the new Primesense Carmine close-range devices. Is someone offering the glasses kit for it as an assembled unit, or is this strictly a DIY project at this point?

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com